From Ancient Greek Libations to Vinitaly in the Digital Age: The Evolution of the Sommelier
The figure of the sommelier has evolved over time, from the ancient Greek and Roman libations to today's Vinitaly in the digital era, while maintaining its allure and importance in the wine world. This transformation has spanned epochs, cultures, and social contexts, adapting to the needs and tastes of each historical period.
The Precursors of the Sommelier: From the Symposiarch to the Arbiter Bibendi
In ancient Greece, the symposiarch was the master of ceremonies at symposia, responsible for setting the drinking rules and deciding the proportions of wine and water. In ancient Rome, the arbiter bibendiplayed a similar role at lavish patrician banquets. Although they operated in different contexts, these figures can be considered the first precursors of the modern sommelier-guardians of the pleasure of tasting and guarantors of the quality of the wine served.
The Sommelier in the Renaissance: The Role of the Bottigliere
Over the centuries, the role of the sommelier further evolved. During the Renaissance, in aristocratic courts and noble households, figures such as the cupbearer, cellar master, and bottle-keeper emerged as true wine professionals. Among them, Santo Lancerio, personal bottle-keeper to Pope Paul III between 1534 and 1549, stands out as the first sommelier in history. Lancerio not only selected and managed papal wines but also left an important literary legacy: a letter to Cardinal Guido Ascanio Sforzacontaining detailed organoleptic descriptions of 53 wines and their ideal food pairings. This document represents one of the earliest examples of wine criticism in Italy and foreshadows the work of modern sommeliers.
The Evolution of the Term "Sommelier"
While the sommelier's role has noble roots, the origin of the term itself is more humble. The word "sommelier" derives from the Old French "saumalier," which referred to a pack animal driver—typically itinerant farmers who transported and sold food and wine. Over time, this figure evolved into a provision manager and then a cellar master, eventually becoming the profession we recognize today.
The Modern Sommelier: A Multifaceted Professional
Today, the sommelier is a cultured expert and consultant in fine food and drink, a key figure in the gastronomic landscape. Their training is rigorous and comprehensive: in Italy, several associations offer professional sommelier courses, including AIS, FIS, FISAR, ONAV, and ASPI. The required skills range from knowledge of viticulture and production methods to tasting techniques, market dynamics, regulations, and the art of food and wine pairing.
The Sommelier as a Trendsetter
A sommelier is not just a wine expert but also a trendsetter capable of influencing consumer choices and a product's commercial success. Their recommendations can determine the fate of a wine label, making them a key reference for producers, restaurateurs, and wine enthusiasts alike.
Artificial Intelligence and the Future of the Sommelier
With the advent of the digital age, sommeliers now face new challenges and opportunities. Artificial Intelligence is making its way into the wine world, offering innovative tools for tasting and consultation. A notable example is Redi, the virtual alter ego introduced at Vinitaly 2024 by the Tuscan winery Tua Rita, which leverages AI to guide wine selection. While these innovations open new perspectives, the sommelier profession remains deeply rooted in passion, sensitivity, and knowledge.
