The refinement in the sea: an innovative technique for exceptional wines

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The world of Italian wine never ceases to amaze, blending tradition and innovation to create unique and inimitable products. Among the most fascinating practices of recent years is sea-aging, a technique that transforms the depths of the ocean into natural cellars capable of enhancing the characteristics of wines and spirits.

Initially met with curiosity and skepticism, this methodology is now garnering growing interest, supported by early scientific findings highlighting its potential to create unique organoleptic and sensory changes in wine.

In the depths of the sea, optimal conditions for aging wine are naturally created: a constant temperature protects it from thermal fluctuations, total darkness preserves its integrity, and gentle micro-oxygenation enhances its quality. Additionally, the constant movement of ocean currents helps the integration of components within the bottles, ensuring a uniquely harmonious flavor profile.

The result is a wine that captivates the palate and intrigues the eye: bottles encrusted with coral, shells, and other natural elements become true collector’s items cherished by enthusiasts.

Italy’s journey into sea-aging began thanks to the visionary mind of Pierluigi (Piero) Lugano from the Bisson Winery, who, in 2009, submerged 6,500 bottles of traditional-method sparkling wine off the coast of Portofino in Liguria. At 60 meters of depth and a constant temperature of 15°C, the bottles rested for 26 months, giving birth to the celebrated “Abissi.” This sparkling wine, now also available in Rosé and Riserva versions, has become the jewel of the winery’s production—a commercial success and a symbol of Italian winemaking innovation.

Since then, interest in underwater aging has spread across the peninsula, involving an increasing number of wineries, though it remains a niche market.

A significant boost to the practice came from Jamin Underwater Wines, founded in Portofino in 2015, the first Italian company to invest in underwater wine aging and develop a patented method. By combining technology with sustainability, Jamin has created optimal conditions for aging wines. Their system involves submerging modular cages containing approximately 500 bottles, continuously monitored through sensors connected to a blockchain platform to ensure traceability and quality for each individual bottle.

In addition to offering third-party aging services, Jamin has pioneered a franchise model, making its expertise accessible to aspiring entrepreneurs eager to explore this innovative winemaking technique.

Jamin’s franchise network currently boasts four affiliated underwater wineries: Ravenna in Emilia-Romagna, Termoli in Molise, Acquappesa in Calabria, and Scarlino in Tuscany.The underwater Winery in Termoli, “Le Profondità,” is now the largest in Italy. Created by “Cobalto,” a women-led startup, it carries significant symbolic value for the region. The coastal waters of Molise host bottles of Tintilia and Falanghina, wines that represent the regional viticultural heritage, proving that even small-scale producers can compete with established wineries through innovative ideas.

Sea-aging has become much more than just a marketing gimmick. It is an experience that intimately and authentically ties wine to its territory, showcasing marine waters as a precious resource. This practice embodies the perfect balance between tradition and modernity.

Every bottle recovered from the sea, encrusted and adorned by time and nature’s elements, carries not only a unique flavor but also symbolizes an extraordinary connection between the land, the passion of the people involved, and the magic of the sea.

Evelina Guerreschi

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