The use of terracotta amphorae in winemaking represents a millennia-old tradition, a technique that has spanned centuries and is now experiencing a remarkable revival. This practice, which originated in Georgia around 8000 years ago, was the starting point for a spread that left a deep mark on the history of wine.
Ancient Origins: The Georgian Tradition
In Georgia, amphora winemaking – known here as Qvevri or Kvevri – is an art passed down through generations. With capacities ranging from 100 to 4000 liters, these terracotta containers have always played a fundamental role in both fermentation and aging. Unlike other techniques that evolved over time, in Georgia, this practice has never ceased, becoming a defining element of the country and recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 2013.
From Georgia to the World: The Spread of an Art
The transition from the Georgian tradition to other regions of the world has allowed amphora winemaking to gain a global dimension. The charm of this technique lies in its ability to preserve the wine’s flavors and aromas, thanks to the unique properties of terracotta, which naturally promote micro-oxygenation. This characteristic has inspired producers in different parts of the world to rediscover an ancient method capable of authentically and sustainably enhancing the terroir.
The Return to Italy: Josko Gravner and the Collio Region
In Italy, the pioneer of the return to amphora winemaking was Josko Gravner, a winemaker from the Collio region in Friuli. Around 2001, after extensive experimentation and a journey to Georgia, Gravner decided to abandon the use of steel and barrique in favor of fully embracing buried amphorae. Using this ancient vessel for fermenting grapes with their skins, he created white and red wines that intensely express the character of the territory, rediscovering a direct link between nature, tradition, and innovation.
Contemporary Evolution: A Sustainable Choice
Over the past twenty years, many Italian producers, from North to South, have once again embraced amphora winemaking. This choice, besides representing a return to the origins, is also strongly oriented towards environmental sustainability. By using terracotta amphorae, winemakers aim for low-impact techniques, aligning with the needs of a sustainable future while preserving an ancient and valuable knowledge.
The Technical Advantages of Terracotta Amphorae
Amphorae offer numerous advantages that make them ideal for winemaking:
- Natural Micro-Oxygenation: The porosity of terracotta allows for slow and controlled oxygenation of the wine, similar to that ensured by wood but without altering its aroma.
- Thermal Insulation: Amphorae, especially when buried, provide excellent thermal insulation, helping to maintain a constant temperature during fermentation and aging.
- Protection from Microorganisms: The inert nature of terracotta prevents the proliferation of unwanted bacteria, such as brettanomyces, which can compromise the wine’s organoleptic profile.
- Durability and Economy: Unlike wood, which requires periodic replacements, terracotta amphorae are extremely durable and represent a long-term investment for producers.
Alternative Materials and New Perspectives
Today, the world of amphorae is no longer limited to terracotta. Other ceramic materials, such as porcelain and stoneware, are being experimented with, offering different porosity and insulation properties. Additionally, innovative solutions like cocciopesto, made from aggregates bound by cement mortar and air-dried, are emerging. These alternatives allow for greater experimentation and customization of winemaking, adapting to the specific needs of each grape variety and terroir.
Amphora Revolution: The Event Celebrating an Ancient Art
The growing interest in amphora winemaking has reached new heights with the organization of dedicated events. For the first time, on June 7-8, 2024, in Verona, the Amphora Revolution event, organized by Merano WineFestival in collaboration with Vinitaly, will take place. With the participation of around a hundred leading wineries, the event celebrates the excellence of a niche production with a promising future, highlighting the innovation and tradition that define the art of amphora winemaking.
A Bridge Between Tradition and Innovation
Amphora winemaking represents a perfect combination of tradition and innovation. This ancient technique, born in Georgia and rediscovered in Italy thanks to pioneers like Josko Gravner, demonstrates how respect for the past can integrate with the needs of a sustainable future. Amphorae, with their technical advantages and endless creative possibilities, continue to tell a story of passion, resilience, and human ingenuity, transforming winemaking into a true art.
