Moscato di Saracena: an oenological gem at the foot of the Pollino mountains

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In the heart of the Pollino National Park, nestled among the mountains of northern Calabria, lies Saracena—a small village in the province of Cosenza that safeguards one of Italy’s oldest and most treasured winemaking traditions. Here, the Moscato Passito al Governo di Saracena is produced: a sweet wine with a unique production method, deeply rooted in centuries-old practices.

 

Its fame dates back at least to the 16th century, when Cardinal Guglielmo Sirleto, impressed by its quality, had it shipped by sea to Rome, where it gained renown at the papal court. Even today, this rare and refined passito remains a symbol of excellence in Calabrian viticulture.

 

A One-of-a-Kind Winemaking Tradition

 

Moscato di Saracena is made using an original and complex winemaking technique that involves four native grape varieties:

  • Moscatello di Saracena
  • Duraca
  • Guarnaccia
  • Malvasia

The process unfolds in several stages and sets itself apart from all other passiti (dessert wines) through the use of grape must concentrated by boiling—an ancient method that gives the wine its unmistakable organoleptic qualities.

 

The Production Method

  1. Drying of aromatic grapes: The Moscatello di Saracena and Duraca grapes are harvested in early September and laid to dry on shaded racks for about a month. This process concentrates sugars and aromas, enhancing the bouquet that will define the wine.
  2. Must concentration: The Guarnaccia and Malvasia grapes are harvested later, in the first week of October. The must obtained from them is slowly boiled down by a third, increasing the sugar density and potential alcohol content of the wine.
  3. Fermentation with dried grapes: Once cooled, the concentrated must is combined with the dried grapes, which are manually crushed—often by the expert hands of the village’s women. The natural yeasts on the grape skins start the fermentation process, which takes place in stainless steel vats or wooden barrels, depending on the producer.

 

Characteristics of Moscato di Saracena

 

The result is an extraordinary sweet wine with a rich and unmistakable sensory profile:

  • Color: Amber yellow with golden highlights
  • Aroma: Intense and enveloping, with notes of honey, dried figs, dates, apricot, and exotic fruits
  • Taste: Sweet but never cloying, with well-balanced freshness and a persistent, harmonious finish

 

Food Pairings

 

Thanks to its remarkable aromatic complexity, Moscato di Saracena pairs beautifully with:

  • Dry pastries: Perfect with almond cookies, cantucci, and nut-based tarts
  • Aged and blue cheeses: Ideal with semi-aged pecorino, gorgonzola, and other blue cheeses
  • Meditation wine: Best enjoyed on its own to fully appreciate its depth and persistence

 

A Celebrated Oenological Treasure

 

This jewel of Calabrian viticulture has crossed national borders, winning the hearts of wine lovers and industry experts alike. Moscato di Saracena is now a Slow Food Presidium, a testament to its historical value and the importance of preserving this unique tradition.

Rare, precious, and steeped in history, it is a wine that offers a true journey through the flavors and culture of Calabria—a small yet exceptional oenological treasure waiting to be discovered and celebrated.

Evelina Guerreschi

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